DIY floating bed from YouTube channel HomeMadeModern (20+ photos)

DIY floating bed from YouTube channel HomeMadeModern

In this article, the author of the YouTube channel “HomeMadeModern” will tell you about a method of making a rather unusual “floating” bed, without magnets, and any magic. Welding and some carpentry – that’s the whole trick!

Materials.
– Untreated white cedar board
– Steel corner, profile tube 25X25 mm, strip 75X6 mm, mesh
– Plexiglass plate
– Abrasive polishing paste
– Bolts, washers, nuts
– Machine oil, aerosol primer for metal, enamel, linseed oil.

The tools used by the author.
–  Multifunctional building metal
–  Spring clips , clamps
–  Welding mask chameleon
–  Welding semiautomatic
–  Magnetic corner welder
–  Circular Saw
–  The Bulgarian ,  cutting diamond blade for metal
–  Abrasive “coral” angle grinder
–  Orbital sander
–  Screwdriver , cobalt drill
–  polishing wheels for screwdriver
–  Circular saw
– Svenson’s square , tape measure, marker.

DIY: the floating wooden bed is a low cost way to decor your home

Manufacturing process.
The headboard of the bed will be made of a wide slab of white cedar so that the headband has a natural edge. By the way, this piece of wood is worth a lot …

The bed frame itself will be made of a steel profile tube 25X25 mm. The latter is measured in length, the grinder is cut into sections.

Only two tools are involved in the manufacture of the frame – angle grinder and a welding machine.

With the help of a “coral” disc , rust, other dirt and oxides are removed from the ends of the profile, where welding will be carried out.

Then all the elements are laid out in this order on the floor. With this in the middle, the long sections protrude slightly beyond the frame lines (by about 2.5-3 inches). These protrusions are necessary so that the frame is slightly spaced from the wall, so that the slab headband can be installed.

During welding, the foreman uses a magnetic corner . The latter allow steel parts to be held at a perfectly accurate angle.

During the welding process, long beams can be skewed somewhat. To prevent this from happening, the author recommends resorting to the help of a long clamp.

Now we have to weld a couple of vertical posts that will hide behind the slab and fit under the wall itself. In these areas, weld seams must be properly cleaned until a flat surface is obtained.

After that, such cuts are made in the vertical segments.

Since the cuts turned out to be somewhat sloppy, the author puts metal scraps into the resulting cracks and welds everything together.

To rigidly attach the headboard to the wall, the master uses a 75X6 mm steel strip. He drills holes in it for screws with which the bed will be attached to the wall.

Then the master presses the steel strip with clamps to the vertical posts and welds.

Further, in addition to the two legs that will be hidden behind the slab, the author plans to install another wide central leg made of plexiglass. It will give the entire structure reliability and stability.

To fix the transparent plexiglass plate to the steel frame, a craftsman cuts a piece from a 50X50 mm steel corner and welds it to the center of the bed frame.

Then he drills several holes in it through which the plexiglass plate will be attached to the base.

Although this part of the bed will be hidden from view, the author still intends to close the gaping profile holes at its ends. To do this, he cuts out several squares from the scraps of the profile pipe, fixes them with a magnetic corner and boils around the perimeter.
All seams are processed with a grinding disc.

The author wants to more reliably attach the bed to the wall, for this, using a metal detector , the location of the profile behind the drywall is determined.

This is a very simple model , I would recommend this multifunctional construction metal detector .

The master temporarily lays wide plywood under the place where the plexiglass plate will be located later.

Then the whole structure is screwed to the wall. The author tries how much the frame will bend and comes to the conclusion that the frame should be strengthened a little more.

So, several more bulkheads are welded onto the frame.

A steel expanded metal mesh is now spread over the frame. It will also add rigidity to the structure. The excess parts of the mesh are cut off with a grinder.

The mesh is fixed on the frame with a cut of the profile and two clamps, after which the process of painstaking welding takes place.

At the end of this stage of work, the master removes the scale with a disc metal brush, and grinds the sharp edges of the mesh with a sharpening disk.

Then a rectangular piece of 3 mm steel sheet is taken, which will serve as a mounting plate for securing the wooden headband. Mounting holes for screws are drilled in it, after which the plate is welded to the posts.

Now the entire structure is covered with a layer of aerosol metal primer.

Then the joints and grooves are rubbed with putty and sanded after drying.

The frame is covered with two more layers of white glossy spray enamel.

Further, on a circular machine, a plate of plexiglass is cut to size with a disk with small teeth. All of its edges are carefully polished, from 150 grit to 220 grit.

Before processing all sections 320 with abrasive paper, the author drills holes in the slab, using a cut of plywood with prepared holes as a guide.

Then polish is applied to all faces. When polishing, he uses a felt wheel .

After removing the protective film, he additionally processes these surfaces.

However, you can achieve maximum transparency of thick plexiglass in another way, namely, using a gas burner or a technical hairdryer.

The hour has come for the installation of the wide leg. Two corners of the plexiglass had to be ground off a little so that the plate attached to the weld seam could press as tightly as possible against the steel corner.

In addition, the master applies a layer of silicone sealant between the corner and the plate to create a kind of cushion that softens the hard connection of the softer plastic with the hard article.

Then the bolts and nuts are screwed in.

The next step is to attach the bed to the wall.

Now it’s the turn of the headboard. Excess wood is cut off.

Holes are drilled in the cedar slab for the jigsaw blade to enter, and a pair of wide slots are sawn through, through which it will fit onto the profile. For this, a jigsaw with an elongated blade is used .

The slab itself is processed with a grinding disc, the author especially carefully rounds the corners and side edges.
After that, the wood is additionally sanded with an orbital sander.

The material is covered with a finishing impregnation and then a layer of clear varnish to bring out the warm wood tones. This type of topcoat is made with natural oils and waxes.

The finish is applied first in a thick layer, then spread over the surface with a brush or a piece of canvas. After 10-15 minutes, you should walk again with a cloth, rubbing the varnish into the surface, removing dry areas and rubbing the places where varnish has accumulated.

Finally, the author uses a lint-free cloth to remove excess material.

Before placing the finished headboard on the steel uprights, the foreman cuts two shallow grooves, approximately 10 mm deep, from the back of the slab to create additional leveling space.